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MISS FRASCATI ovvero LA PUPAZZA FRASCATANA (e non stiamo parlando di un concorso di bellezza ?)

Vi riproponiamo oggi un articolo apparso qualche tempo fa sulla rivista “La cucina italiana” che parla del celebre biscotto castellano.

Farina, miele, e… tre seni. Sono questi gli “ingredienti” che hanno reso celebre il simbolo gastronomico di Frascati, la Pupazza. Questo caratteristico dolce, dalla ricetta simile a quella dei mostaccioli e delle frolle più classiche, raffigura una donna che, per l’appunto, ostenta con fierezza i suoi tre seni nudi. Con le braccia a brocca sui fianchi e le gambe incrociate, come una ballerina in tutù che danza sulle punte, la Pupazza fa mostra delle sue grazie in tutti i forni del paese. L’origine della ricetta non è ancora stata stabilita con precisione tanto che a Frascati si possono trovare numerose varianti del biscotto con altrettante rivendicazioni di paternità. La Pupazza, che in dialetto romano significa bambola, è tradizionalmente alta circa 25 centimetri anche se durante le feste se ne possono trovare versioni più grandi.

La leggenda
Secondo tradizione, la Pupazza frascatana nasce come prodotto squisitamente natalizio ma oggi viene prodotto tutto l’anno per venire incontro alla grande richiesta, anche internazionale. Infatti, nonostante abbia una ricetta poco elaborata e molto simile a tanti altri dolci tradizionali italiani, la dolce bambolina al miele si è guadagnata un posto nelle maggiori guide turistiche proprio grazie alla sua tradizionale forma. Sul motivo per il quale la pupazza abbia tre seni ancora non si è fatta completamente luce. La leggenda più accreditata narra che raffiguri una “mammana” ossia la balia che si prendeva cura dei bambini delle donne impegnate nella vendemmia. Come si sa, non è facile far star buoni i più piccoli, per questo la mammana con i più capricciosi utilizzava un seno finto per allattarli con un buon vino della zona. Da qui i tre seni, che celebrano la secolare tradizione vinicola dei Castelli Romani. Basti pensare che a pochi chilometri da Frascati ci si può imbattere nelle celebri “fontane che danno vino” di Marino, e che nei vigneti intorno al paese viene prodotto il Frascati Superiore, un vino DOCG.
Questa leggenda prende piede nel primo dopo guerra ma c’è chi è pronto a giurare che la pupazza esisteva già ad inizio secolo. Il terzo seno, secondo questo filone di pensiero, non è altro che il frutto di un errore nella preparazione del dolce che, in origine, rappresentava una donna con un normale decolté.

Tanti nomi, un unico simbolo
Facendo una passeggiata in piazza del mercato a Frascati e fermandosi a chiacchierare con qualche commerciante, si scoprirà che non tutti chiamano nello steso modo questo dolce tradizionale. Sebbene il nome più accreditato sia Pupazza Frascatana, c’è anche chi la chiama Pupazza a Tre Seni di Frascati, chi ‘A Pupazza de Mèle o chi, più semplicemente, Miss Frascati. Questa deliziosa e procace donnina si è trasformata negli anni in un prodotto particolarmente rappresentativo della cittadina che si affaccia su Roma. Tanto che, alcuni artigiani della zona ne hanno realizzato varianti “non commestibili” in metallo e ceramica da conservare come ricordo. Inoltre, il Ministero delle Politiche Agricoli, Alimentari e Forestali ha riconosciuto il valore folkloristico di questo dolce inserendolo nell’elenco dei Prodotti Agroalimentari Tradizionali del Lazio (PAT).

Come si fa
La Pupazza Frascatana nasce da una ricetta semplice e può essere facilmente preparata in casa. Gli ingredienti tipici di base sono farina, olio extravergine di oliva, aroma di arancio e miele, preferibilmente millefiori, prodotto nel territorio dell’Agro pontino della provincia di Latina. La presenza del miele fa sì che il biscotto appena fatto sia molto duro, ma nei giorni immediatamente successivi tende ad ammorbidirsi. Partendo da questi ingredienti di base, ci si può sbizzarrire in numerose varianti. I forni di Frascati, in questo, sono maestri. Ogni panificio si differenzia dall’altro per l’utilizzo di qualche spezia particolare nell’impasto, c’è chi lo fa con il cacao, chi con la cannella, chi ancora con la noce moscata, o per le decorazioni del viso della Pupazza che vengono fatte con canditi, amarene, chicchi d’orzo oppure di caffè per dare gli occhi, il naso e la bocca alla donnina.

Ecco il link alla rivista
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